The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 3-4 day, 45km loop located in Tongariro National Park on the North Island of New Zealand. This track circumnavigates Mount Ngaruhoe through a wide variety of terrain, from alpine tussocks to desert sand.
I completed this circuit in February 2019, several weeks after I arrived in New Zealand for the first time. It was the first multi-day trek I did while I was in New Zealand, and my first time doing a solo overnight trip, so was very memorable in that sense. Having not spent much time hiking in active volcanic areas such as this one, the change in scenery also made this a very unique hike for me.
The Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s ten Great Walks. I’ve also been lucky enough to explore the Abel Tasman and Kepler Great Walks. Although these ten trails are selected as some of the best in the country, there are so many other routes to explore in New Zealand that are just as epic, but not as busy (or as expensive for international folks).
Here is some beta for you to use while planning your hike on the Tongariro Northern Circuit.
Trail Stats
Distance: 45 km
Elevation: 1,627m (cumulatively)
Route Type: Loop
Difficulty: Moderate
Hiking Season: late October to end of April
Planning Resources
- The Department of Conservation (affectionately called DoC) website has lots of information and topographic maps of the trail
Preparing for the Trip
Itinerary
The Tongariro Northern Circuit is typically completed in 3 or 4 days, and can be done in a clock-wise or a counter-clockwise direction. I completed the trail in 3 days in a clock-wise direction, and think this was appropriate given my fitness, skills, and experience.
Given that the second day of the trail takes the same route as the very popular Tongariro Crossing day hike, the section between Mangatepopo Hut and Emerald Lakes is quite busy. I think it would be difficult to pass through this area if you were trying to go against the stream of traffic, so would recommend the clockwise direction.
There are a variety of different side trips that you can take. Note that climbing both Mount Ngaruhoe and Mount Tongariro are strongly discouraged, as these peaks are considered to be sacred. I checked out some points of interest around Oturere Hut and Waihonuhu Hut, but did not get a chance to get up to Tama Lakes. I’m keen to check out those lakes on a day hike whenever I can get back to New Zealand!
Transportation to Trailhead
I parked my vehicle at the parking lot near the Tongariro National Park Visitor’s Centre, located in Whakapapa Village.
Sleeping Options
There are three huts on the Tongariro Northern Circuit: Mangatepopo Hut (km 10), Oturere Hut (km 22), and Waihonuhu Hut (km 30). You can stay in the huts, or you can camp outside the huts and still have access to all the facilities. Regardless of whether you camp or stay in the hut, you need to book ahead. Check the DoC website for more details.
As with all the Great Walks, there are different rates for international visitors versus New Zealand citizens and residents. At the time of writing, one night in one of the huts for one adult was $37 for a NZ resident and $56 for an international visitor, and camping was $16 for a NZ resident and $24 for an international visitor.
Being budget-conscious, and not yet considered a NZ resident at the time, I opted to camp.
On the Trail
Day 1: Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut
It was an early start, as I had to drive to Whakapapa Village from Rotorua, which took about 2.5 hours with a stop for fuel near Taupo. Once arriving in Whakapapa Village, I signed in and got an overnight parking pass from the Tongariro National Park Visitor’s Centre. By the time I got going on the trail, it was about 11am.
The first section of the trail is very flat, only occasionally dipping down and climbing back up to cross streams, and winds through the tussocks. The weather was good and I had great views of Ngaruhoe and Ruapehu the entire way. I encountered a few day hikers coming in the opposite direction from me, but otherwise had the trail to myself.
I was able to cover this section very quickly, so arrived at Mangatepopo Hut around 1:30 pm, after stopping for lunch in a sunny spot about halfway between the village and the hut. After setting up my tent, I enjoyed a sunny afternoon on the deck of the hut talking to a lively Kiwi tramping group and reading.
I was going to be up early to hit the next section of the trail before it got too busy, so had some warm ramen for dinner before heading back to my tent for some shut-eye.
Day 2: Mangatepopo Hut to Waihonuhu Hut
My alarm woke me around 5:30 am, and I hastily packed my sleeping gear and tent up, snarfed down a few granola bars, and got back on the trail around 6:30 am.
The sun was just starting to light up the valley, but already there was a steady stream of day hikers starting the Tongariro Crossing when I started. Knowing how much I hate busy hikes, I was keen to avoid the worst of the crowds. If it was already this busy, it must be nuts later in the day.
The path follows the Mangatepopo stream up through the valley, Ngaruhoe towering above. The trail is very well-formed, and consists of either compacted gravel or boardwalk, so I was able to make quick time for the first few kilometres.
After about an hour of moderately graded hiking, the path begins a steep climb towards the Mangatepopo Saddle. This part of the trail is also very well maintained, and despite the steep climb, I was able to make good time on this section as well. I stopped frequently to turn around and take in the views of the valley below.
Once you reach the saddle, the trail is completely flat for some time, as you walk between Tongariro and Ngaruhoe.
Now for the final climb!
From the flats, you climb a slippery and dusty slope up the Red Crater to the high point of the trail. From here you can see the Emerald Lakes to your right, and Blue Lake in the distance to the left.
After taking in the view, I quickly descended a scree slope to Emerald Lakes. The Tongariro Northern Circuit diverges from the Tongariro Crossing at these lakes, but I wanted to check out Blue Lake, so I took a small detour to check it out, and stopped for a snack on the shoreline.
I then backtracked to Emerald Lakes, and continued on through the prehistoric lava flows. While the Tongariro Crossing was busy, as soon as I continued on the Northern Circuit trail, I was completely alone again.
There is a steep climb down from Emerald Lakes through sharp volcanic rock, so take special care on this section, as a fall would be quite painful. After carefully navigating this downhill, you arrive on some sandy flats. This part of the trail is what I imagine walking on Mars would be like.
I trudged through the volcanic dust, large lava outcrops surrounding me, for at least another hour.
I finally arrived at Oturere Hut around 12:30 pm, and dropped my pack, eager to rest my back. There is a small waterfall a couple of minutes past the hut, so I wandered over here to eat my lunch and dip my feet in the icy water before continuing onwards.
The trail continued along a dusty trail, slowly climbing up and down across the volcanic ridges. Ngaruhoe was now behind me, but I had some fantastic views of Ruapehu right in front.
This part of the trail felt like it took forever, and I had to turn on a podcast after a while to keep myself going. After a couple of hours, the trail descends into a beech forest, and you arrive at Waihonuhu Hut.
I quickly set up my tent and submerged my dusty body in the icy river to clean myself off after a 20km day. My feet were sore, as I hadn’t done a hike of that distance in quite some time, but was happy to have experienced such a variety of scenery in such a short distance.
I was pretty content to sit on the river’s edge with my feet in the water for the rest of the afternoon, before cooking up my traditional ramen dinner and retiring to my tent for the evening.
Day 3: Waihonuhu Hut to Whakapapa Village
As per usual, I packed up my tent, had some oatmeal for breakfast, and began the 15km walk back to my vehicle at Whakapapa Village. I walked across the plains between Ngaruhoe and Ruapehu, slowly climbing back to the elevation of the village.
It began to rain as soon as I left the campsite at Waihonuhu Hut, and did not let up until I arrived back at Whakapapa Village. Originally I had intended to take a side trip up to Tama Lakes, but opted out given how wet it was and how much I was looking forward to a warm meal and a cozy bed that evening.
After a few hours of walking, I arrived back at Whakapapa Village, feeling accomplished for completing my first solo overnight hike and feeling incredibly lucky to be able to experience something so different from my usual alpine or coastal hiking experiences.
Summary
While most folks simply do the Tongariro Crossing, I am glad I decided to complete the entire Tongariro Circuit over several days. It was fascinating to walk through landscapes so different to what I am used to seeing, and was not at all busy off of the Tongariro Crossing section of the trail, so felt more adventurous than just doing the day hike.
I would highly recommend this track to folks who are curious to see some of the amazing volcanic landscapes that New Zealand has to offer.
Are you keen to check out the Tongariro Northern Circuit?
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